Saturday, June 8, 2013

Çok Turkey (So much Turkey)


I’m sitting in a 130-year-old Greek style home in Mustafa Paşa with my window open listening to a man chanting his evening prayers over the loudspeakers from the minaret.  A minaret is a tower that juts out of the side of a domed mosque to lead people in a call to worship Allah.  It looks much like a skinny #2 pencil with megaphones near the top.  The song is one of the most beautiful I’ve heard so far—it has passion and adoration behind it.  Those words fit Turkey well—I see it in almost everything I’ve experienced whether that be in sight, sound, or taste.  What I’m learning is that this passion doesn’t come without a price—the Turks have fought for their modern nationhood for many many years.  And even today thousands gather in Tahrir Square in downtown Istanbul to protest the current Prime Minister’s leadership (or to many—corruption).  Ironic how Tahrir Square is located on Istiklâl Avenue (a busy hub in downtown Istanbul).  The word Istiklâl means independence, freedom, and liberty in Turkish, and its just that which is being stifled by the tear gas and rubber bullets being fired into crowds of “protestors”—or people who were literally just picnicking in fashionable clothing the first days of the “riots”.  The government has been projecting an image of unpatriotic disobedient dissidents when really they are everyday citizens demanding that corruption would stop among the business and bureaucratic elite.  I hope that the protests are resolved by the time we arrive in Istanbul the 17th, but it’s very cool to be living in the history of Turkey—this could literally change things for the country.

I’m beginning to realize what a commitment it is to write in this blog.  We see, listen, and learn so much in a given day that its hard to really convey what’s happening with much justice that I feel daunted by the sitting down to write—but write I must so I can relive this one month for many years to come.

Yesterday was absolutely, utterly, undeniably, unforgettably remarkable. We went to the Atatürk’s home which is out of a fairy tale.  There are pieces of furniture given to the Atatürk from Kings, Sultans, and Presidents from all over the world.  We were standing amid the dining room table where decisions that have affected the lives of millions of Turks in the last century happened.  The level of ornamentation and devotion to protecting the national hero’s home preserved was astounding—I’m curious to know how it compares to our own White House. 

Of course we made a quick stop to see the Turkish Lush JUST for me.  J  They have all of the same stuff there we have except for a moisturizer called British Nanny.  I didn’t want it though.  I did however buy some of the newer fragrances.  #girlscream

From there we went to the Parliament Building and sat in the visitors section where the over 500 members of Parliament sit to decide what laws will exist to govern the nation.  I wish I wasn’t called out on being drowsy from Jet-lagness—but the dude bored me.  Boom, there I said it.
We then had an appointment to meet with the Secretary General of the equivalent to our Supreme Court.  We walk in to sit among the most pristine desks with a plate of cookies and water to drink.  Then, the Secretary General walks in with a translator and sits at the head of the table.  He proceeds to explain to us about the judicial system here in Turkey and has an amazing sense of humor.  He’s so gracious to us too—the çay comes rolling in and then a plate of frozen white gets placed before us.  Like honey, this ice cream deserves to have an entire blog entry about it.  Gökhan awes about the food because it is such a specialty and is such a gesture of generosity.  It is a special ice cream that is made from goat milk.  I’m sure my parents are squirming in their seats reading about this because they’re a little particular about which creatures’ udders they drink from.  I don’t think I could do it justice describing it because it was light and yet rich, cold and yet made you feel warm—hence my belief that this was actually witchcraft. 

After our ice cream we walked in to the equivalent of our Supreme Court chamber where they have tried high profile criminals and evaluated laws to govern the people.  The Secretary General invited us to sit in any of the justices’ seats.  We were shocked and a bit apprehensive, but he explained that these seats are that which they’ve been entrusted with and that they will be given up again to another person when their time is finished—they are the peoples’ chairs.  So, we got a big group picture of us sitting in the seats and even in the seat reserved for the Prime Minister.  Oh you should know that there are two highly elected officials in the country—The Prime Minister and the President.  The Prime Minister functions more like our President and the President seems to have a function of a vice-president and a figurehead monarchy combined into one democratic role.  Something should be noted here—we are doing things that the vast majority of Turks NEVER get to do.  Its all been arranged by Gökhan through the incredible connections he has having served a seat in parliament for a term.  He is one of the most sincere and best men I’ve had the honor of meeting.  I give him a hard time, but in my heart of hearts I respect and admire his life greatly. 

Today we travelled to Cappodocia—a city/region to the southeast of Ankara.  We passed along the 2nd largest salt lake in the world (bigger than Utah’s lake), and I got to practice some bartering skills that have grown rusty over the years, but still get the job done.  I think I could teach a class on being cheap in a foreign country—2 steps: 1.) always act disinterested 2.) tell them “I pay ____ and nod your head.” If they say no….repeat steps with perhaps a slightly higher number in the blank. Boom—there you go!

Oh one thing I HAD to remember to write about was the way the short wheat looked blowing in the wind on the hills of Cappodocia.  It was breathtaking.  I could have sat in a field and watch the ocean like fields toss the tips of the grass over the one next to it like a wave on the sea.  It held me captivated for several minutes just watching it flow over and over again as we drove down the road. 

We saw some of the craziest rocks today too! They were like towers jutting out of the ground because of the way they eroded.  We also saw these caves where early Christians living in the Roman empire were forced to live—it was law that Christians couldn’t live on the same level as other people, they had to live underground.  That’s at least what our tour guide told us and I potentially mixed up because I’ve been too busy being an artist snapping photos.

When we arrive to our hotel we were all just completely astonished to find it much like a Tuscan Villa and a grand castle combined.  I am sleeping in an archway with a chandelier hanging over my bed—what the what!? I realized when I woke up from a horrible dream within 5 minutes of falling asleep that this place was the perfect candidate for a movie like Paranormal Activity to have been written about.  I’m alone, in a stone building over 130 years old and I had a dream that someone was standing at the foot of my bed watching me.  Ahh! Pee pants!

I’m missing so many details about our days that I feel absolutely guilty for not being able to write about.  We had dinner last night and I ordered Raki (the double size of course) and when I thought I was getting red wine I got anise liquor similar to the Greek Üzo.  If you know anything about Trent McFalls you know he despises the taste of licorice.  Did he drink it anyway and get a little drunk for his meandering walk back up the steep hill to the hotel? Heck yes he did.  Then, did he have more wine on the patio with other beautiful people? Heck YES he did.

Okay, its almost time for breakfast and that’s my favorite thing about living so I gotta go get ready for it.  I’ve received no emails hearing about your lives so I’m going to assume that you’re doing well—but please…don’t make me assume because…well…you know the adage.  J

I love you. 

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